Sunday, August 31, 2014

The Elements of Taste

Recently I bought "The Art of Blending" by Lior Lev Sercarz based upon a mention in a New York Times article.  I thought I might learn something about pairing specific spices with different foods.  But not.  It's a book about Lior's blends and using those blends on specific recipes.  I complained.  Lior offered a refund. I said no since one day I will put together a database showing what goes with what based on the book.

I also bought his $150 global spice collection and Bloody Mary master collection and have been happily using since.

Having been born in Detroit from a father that burned boiling water learning about taste has been a challenge.  Not enough info is in cookbooks about this until I discovered "The Elements of Taste" and am now reading it.

When I got Grant Ashatz's Alinea cookbook I was first introduced to the elements of taste.  Someplace in the front pages he mentioned salty, sweet, savory, bitter, something else and later I learned of umami.   I can find the 5th thing in Grant's book anymore, but that doesn't matter.

"The Elements of Taste" goes much further.  It classifies different taste as:

Tastes that Push

  • Salty
  • Sweet
  • Picante: Like pepper
Tastes that Pull

  • Tangy
  • Vinted: Wine/Complex
  • Bulby: Fried onions
  • Floral Herbal
  • Spiced Aromatic: Cinnamon, cloves, allspice, mace, coriander, cumin, saffron, star anise
  • Funky: cabbage, truffles, aged meat/cheese
Taste Platforms
  • Garden
  • Meaty
  • Oceanic
  • Starchy
Tastes that Punctuate
  • Sharp bitter
  • Texture

David Kinch of fire burned Manressa in Los Gatoes rattled off the 5 to me once when I was chatting with him.

Still can't remember.

Then  a few weeks ago I was talking with Chef Ryan of Nick's Next Door about new items that might show up on their several years old, but very delicious menu. He he said a chef starts with the tastes he/she wants for the eater.  That was a remarkable thing for me.  And I told him so.

He asked how I started.  I said, I opened the refrigerator.

I'll make my notes here as I work (read and cook) thru the book and understand taste.

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